Well, we have started the engine build. So far only the crank is in the block as we have run in to problems with con rods.
It looks like the delivered con rods are not genuine K1 and I have ordered some Carrillo rods which should be in the shop on Monday or Tuesday. :/ There are situations where you can't take risks and switching to Carrillo is the way we were supposed to go from the early beginning.
Here are some pictures.
Cleaning the block
Finding new home for this crank. The crank itself has been slightly modified to allow better lubrication of the big end bearings as the EFR7670 will hopefully make some interesting torque figures.
We have also checked the bearing tolerances before we have closed the crank.
New valve springs have arrived, here is a picture of OEM spring compared to the ENEM ones.
New performance exhaust valves have arrived too. These are made with single collet grove and new collets were delivered too.
That is all for now.
We should finish the engine head tomorrow and photos will follow soon!
I'm glad to see that you like the updates!
My business schedule does not really allow me to spend all the time the project would require to be finished in a timely manner, but I do enjoy almost every moment of it. It does have its ups and downs, it makes you disappointed in some people's acts but it also gives you drive to get it done the way it was supposed to be done from the beginning. The very beginning before it has left the production line
I hope I'll be able to provide you with some jucy updates soon.
I was hoping to surprise you with the audio and video of the car running by the end of this weekend, but I have only a picture.
The outcome of the build is:
I was unlucky enough to receive a BW EFR 7670 with porous casting of the exhaust wheel. I found that out after I had to pull the engine out due to a leak on the coolant feed in to the turbo - yes, it was the front port which is only accessible if you remove your turbo and for that you need to pull the engine out. And then I noticed it, a small home on the exhaust wheel. I really think that it was intentionally let pass the quality control as that particular bade had a white paint on it, thus you could’t see the porous casting before the engine run for the first time. That’s about 120 seconds. I have purchased a brand new turbo in EU and got the engine back in.
On Friday I finally got ready to test run the engine for the second time. Insurance payed and ready to put the test plates over the weekend… Started the car and got a nasty surprise again, haven't even left the garage. The block has cracked and a massive coolant leak developed at the rear of the engine at the back side of the second cylinder. I had to tow the car to another garage as this one has already been rented out to a new customer. Tomorrow is going to be a long day of pulling the engine out and stripping it. I can’t express my feelings on the white computer screen and I’ll let the pictures to say it all... I forgot to mention that this happened as soon as the engine warmed up for the first time, not even to a running temperature.
I've pulled the engine out yesterday.
The crack is a bit larger than anticipated.
It will be interesting to see the relation of the ARP stud to the position of the crack. That's the first thing I'll check today.
I've talked to a friend who has over 340HP/1L engine and he pointed me to a machinist who does installs the Dartons and tests the block at 90 degrees centigrade @ 30Bar, on the coolant side I assume.
The machinist should come with a quote for reinstalling of the Dartons to my OEM block. I am really excited now